tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-75200410770308192442024-02-19T07:24:38.720-05:00SITZKRIEG! Hobby BlogTABLETOP MINIATURES HOBBY BLOG ABOUT SCIFI WARFARE WAGED FROM THE SAFETY AND COMFORT OF YOUR CHAIR!SITZKRIEG!http://www.blogger.com/profile/05236105506126383773noreply@blogger.comBlogger188125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7520041077030819244.post-54045227293636310432020-10-23T19:30:00.003-04:002020-10-23T19:30:42.729-04:00Finally cleaning supplies have arrived and so has a 3d print!<p> It took over six months but I finally got my hands on some more isopropyl alcohol so was able to run a 3d print this week! I decided to start with my recent Rafm scale Hunter and got some decent results.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2m2tIrsqlB13QnkntdTpCtJ57aJ1K8V7fMn8mt0VLs_L_Vj9j1bbABWosePezcMyKi-VnOWELrgYe6yQbWSDPESpLtWXDH1go5ALXZo4N8sVsG2sw6_FV9Y_LShkvRVwK7EGw8SYUlmg/s2048/bareresinhunter.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1383" data-original-width="2048" height="432" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2m2tIrsqlB13QnkntdTpCtJ57aJ1K8V7fMn8mt0VLs_L_Vj9j1bbABWosePezcMyKi-VnOWELrgYe6yQbWSDPESpLtWXDH1go5ALXZo4N8sVsG2sw6_FV9Y_LShkvRVwK7EGw8SYUlmg/w640-h432/bareresinhunter.JPG" title="" width="640" /></a></div><p>I didn't have a fully assembled hunter to compare him to so the above incomplete on will have to do. I actually used it as a basis for sizing the 3d model (specifically the height to the top of the hips) but obviously I didn't account for the overall bulk. My previous attempts including changing proportions but I don't think I'll do that this time but rather I'll simply resize it down to about 90-95% when I try again. I thought the details looked a bit soft on the resin so I decided to prime the fig and retake the picture.</p><p><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCqzMOQaDgM3eiP_hhBV66-tBNuIZ39FKgtFwji1fHrAwXw6c1psq2aMfrnyP1QxDj3YsplmeOS8ho6IoDKa3gp3g0047iFSeOqBl7OrI8RMbhnU8Ta_8vYdNDLIeSYKpo_LlSlnfexIc/s2048/primedhunter.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" title=""><img border="0" data-original-height="1371" data-original-width="2048" height="428" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCqzMOQaDgM3eiP_hhBV66-tBNuIZ39FKgtFwji1fHrAwXw6c1psq2aMfrnyP1QxDj3YsplmeOS8ho6IoDKa3gp3g0047iFSeOqBl7OrI8RMbhnU8Ta_8vYdNDLIeSYKpo_LlSlnfexIc/w640-h428/primedhunter.JPG" title="" width="640" /></a></p><p>Why try again? Besides just being too big, I didn't optimally place the parts on the print plate and had several flat surfaces parallel to it. While that won't cause a complete failure, it did cause two other less serious ones on the shoulders. Both shoulders have a loss of detail on the part of the model that was facing the build plate as resin collects there without draining. Fortunately, it's not very visible from the front as the right shoulder has the problem on the back and the left on the top. Additionally there is an aliasing step error where the shoulder was just barely off of parallel causing portions to print in steps at the layer resolution. Initially I thought this was an issue called z-axis wobble but, upon looking at the sliced layers, I saw the real culprit. It's not actually visible to the naked eye on bare resin or even primed in normal light but it could catch and pool washes in the final painting step.<br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjD1JHlW25nxjPw7GuSyRkRHGTKN2En0-B5uAT-Jqw-ZElcrFLXHkHUMuADLHtgx230UxchVI3yDfj1On28x1nzFWiJ2oRdiPnM_Z6CJmPUu5BkUVLrjjG5cmR4pSXtJtb2hPaDwgg-GAM/s1720/wobble.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1664" data-original-width="1720" height="388" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjD1JHlW25nxjPw7GuSyRkRHGTKN2En0-B5uAT-Jqw-ZElcrFLXHkHUMuADLHtgx230UxchVI3yDfj1On28x1nzFWiJ2oRdiPnM_Z6CJmPUu5BkUVLrjjG5cmR4pSXtJtb2hPaDwgg-GAM/w400-h388/wobble.JPG" title="" width="400" /></a> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Well, that's it for now. I'll probably attempt another print run next week as unfortunately their is rain in the forecast for the next couple of days and I won't be able to post-cure my model in the sun. As always, thanks for reading and feel free to comment below!<br /></div>SITZKRIEG!http://www.blogger.com/profile/05236105506126383773noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7520041077030819244.post-28196426707963326792020-10-15T14:17:00.000-04:002020-10-15T14:17:35.256-04:00Only Digital Bytes to Show...<p> for my hobby efforts this past month! I've been out of resin and running low on alcohol to clean the printed models so I haven't actually printed anything in a while. I've kept busy though tweaking/converting 3d models for potential future printing though from scifi RPG character models to Star Trek spaceships to Heavy Gear stompy robots.</p><p>I restarted tweaking my old HGA Heavy Gear
Hunter model yet again. I had problems with the two prints that I
previously attempted and I tweaked the loadout on this version to be a
basic Hunter instead. I previously attempted a multipiece print for my
second try but wasn't happy with the results. After some encouragement
from Ashley over at the Paint it Pink blog (link), I decided to try it
again and was eventually able to both split the parts and set up a ball
and socket connection system between the parts. <br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3f4jKlqB8UGj5znFUiNon7T0k6Or63gF-O5SNcMWdofw6g1o9m7ya-QC5vJB1Iy7Lfqc1wZfZOKSMdmgTXBgyjqGyCg88NFzVbOthiUx6tyB1UYkTVcCnFlva_C97cRitp2isF-r8J3M/s1311/RAFM+HG+Hunter+parts+layout+for+3d+printing.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" title=""></a><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3f4jKlqB8UGj5znFUiNon7T0k6Or63gF-O5SNcMWdofw6g1o9m7ya-QC5vJB1Iy7Lfqc1wZfZOKSMdmgTXBgyjqGyCg88NFzVbOthiUx6tyB1UYkTVcCnFlva_C97cRitp2isF-r8J3M/s1311/RAFM+HG+Hunter+parts+layout+for+3d+printing.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" title=""></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYjXmzfUGzRwcqNPb8JbpFqZWGQmdYBNEKGLxsUAm4sMtYitWsUCqo787wbxBmNsVIqiG3EUoRLDp3A5tgQnV6L4SZD0sD4YcMZlQUrh1ZUsXEyKuLQutFAKfMel4HHxVOFtGeklgpAyc/s906/HGAhunter.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="906" data-original-width="822" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYjXmzfUGzRwcqNPb8JbpFqZWGQmdYBNEKGLxsUAm4sMtYitWsUCqo787wbxBmNsVIqiG3EUoRLDp3A5tgQnV6L4SZD0sD4YcMZlQUrh1ZUsXEyKuLQutFAKfMel4HHxVOFtGeklgpAyc/w582-h640/HGAhunter.png" title="" width="582" /></a></div><img border="0" data-original-height="865" data-original-width="1311" height="422" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3f4jKlqB8UGj5znFUiNon7T0k6Or63gF-O5SNcMWdofw6g1o9m7ya-QC5vJB1Iy7Lfqc1wZfZOKSMdmgTXBgyjqGyCg88NFzVbOthiUx6tyB1UYkTVcCnFlva_C97cRitp2isF-r8J3M/w640-h422/RAFM+HG+Hunter+parts+layout+for+3d+printing.jpg" title="" width="640" /></div><p></p><p>One of the flawed gems of the last console/pc generation was IMO the first Force Unleashed game (the followup was admittedly a rushed cashgrab abomination!). I really liked the look of the Sith Stalker variant of the character model and never saw an official model/miniature other than a single toy figure in a larger boxed set. I recently found a decent 3d model likely ripped from the pc game so it definitely needed conversion to a printable tabletop gaming 3d model. I thickened up various bits to make them sturdier/more likely to print successfully as well as changed the pose as much as I could without any actual knowledge of video game animation.</p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBTvClAuWvbrPwZT5wvTXZEyCQ92lW3TlbSLY8RaLK5nbHmihC0CDpFK4O3qqTqYaedBemoowK-SfaQCQJTaIdUYq0iX5rxXofLqmGgVazxRgG_A3WOdB6qXg63bOU2yjlLhhpWb3oSJQ/s1069/Sith+Apprentice.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="869" data-original-width="1069" height="520" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBTvClAuWvbrPwZT5wvTXZEyCQ92lW3TlbSLY8RaLK5nbHmihC0CDpFK4O3qqTqYaedBemoowK-SfaQCQJTaIdUYq0iX5rxXofLqmGgVazxRgG_A3WOdB6qXg63bOU2yjlLhhpWb3oSJQ/w640-h520/Sith+Apprentice.png" title="" width="640" /></a></div> <p></p><p>And finally we have a selection of Star Trek ships that have been converted into something that more resembles a different era. First up we have a DISCO ship that I've converted into an NX era ship. The second is another DISCO ship that I've tried to convert into a TMP era Akira class.</p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitszm_URmAoxJdTQS8i6juWOHw4wVpKMTKOOIVgNAlsO-1KxShw_XW6Q6ieWUr-VDiDCrNhhv5pIcH8IoNYsmA2TKvAPUqj6CzTU20i-gJKYmsW0PA9dzHRVCMK2yQIvggLto9BBHJ0e0/s1902/NX+Malachowski+4v.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" title=""><img border="0" data-original-height="1056" data-original-width="1902" height="357" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitszm_URmAoxJdTQS8i6juWOHw4wVpKMTKOOIVgNAlsO-1KxShw_XW6Q6ieWUr-VDiDCrNhhv5pIcH8IoNYsmA2TKvAPUqj6CzTU20i-gJKYmsW0PA9dzHRVCMK2yQIvggLto9BBHJ0e0/w640-h357/NX+Malachowski+4v.png" style="outline: red dashed 1px;" title="" width="640" /></a></div><p></p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSU8n_zmTduQIj8MIqgc5sHFdrgv6pApI_CvK0O_rKUtad8zYVQbfwM4jewO_JNkAC99NBf1RO2KPO3kGKo3B3s8n8f5zOOuLsROgqSaZcFDJk0Q6ruZeYvVdL4W7seNOZIwaQtQSNJPQ/s1920/AkiraTMPv2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="1920" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSU8n_zmTduQIj8MIqgc5sHFdrgv6pApI_CvK0O_rKUtad8zYVQbfwM4jewO_JNkAC99NBf1RO2KPO3kGKo3B3s8n8f5zOOuLsROgqSaZcFDJk0Q6ruZeYvVdL4W7seNOZIwaQtQSNJPQ/w640-h360/AkiraTMPv2.jpg" title="" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p></p><br /><br /><p><br /></p>SITZKRIEG!http://www.blogger.com/profile/05236105506126383773noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7520041077030819244.post-15096202468912373482020-09-02T14:06:00.002-04:002020-09-02T15:49:26.783-04:00Dorritos Class and D-10M 3d Models and Stats!It's been a while since I updated the blog despite making some minor hobby progress in the meantime. For some reason, I had an urge to throw together some new Star Trek ships for the FASAverse and worked on both an update to a classic Klingon design as well as a retro-take on the newest official Trek hero ship. Both ships were created using CaptainMojo's parts kits on thingiverse (<a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/captainmojo/designs" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">link here</a>) so special thanks to him for making them available to fans of the classic game! For the first time on this blog, I'm including the 3D model STL designs in addition to the stat sheets and tokens for those who want to use either ship on the tabletop.<br />
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A new Star Trek cartoon came out in the past month and it included a new hero ship that I thought I'd try to retrotrekify (is that a word?) into the FASAverse. I haven't watched the show but supposedly the ship is a second line support vessel. Due to the parts that I used to construct a FASA version with the same overall design asthetic, I decided instead to make this a torpedo destroyer instead.<br />
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The second ship is a minor update on one of my two favorite FASA designs, the D-10. I decided to "fix" the minor quibbles that I had with the design including the overly flat/featureless secondary hull by adding gribbly bits to the bottom and putting a proper impulse deck housing ala the D-7 on the top. I also enlarged the engines and sloped the top of the hull a bit to give it a bit more variation from the front view. <br />
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In the background and rules, I consider this D-10M to be a dedicated command and support variant of the venerable design meant to lead fast moving and cloaked battle groups. It lacks both the troops characteristically found on Klingon cruisers and research facilities on modern D-10 models, replacing them instead with additional support and command facilities. Already fairly cavernous due to the hull design, the removal of those facilities as well as external mounting of the impressively powerful impulse engine allows it to fulfill both those roles. While the offensive armament is unchanged from the most recent model, defensive capabilities are markedly increased with a more efficient variant of the KWE-3 engines and new KSP shielding as well as the installation of the power hungry KCD cloaking device.<br />
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For those interested in playing the ship with the FASA rules, here are the fan stats of this pair of vessels as well as printable tokens for use on a hex grid and the 3d models that I put together from CaptainMojo's parts. Due to my unpleasant experience on thingiverse with my Winged Hussar models being unceremoniously removed without notice/warning, I've decided to host the files here instead.<br />
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1gHTMDMeUJ-DNAIZAeHxl753RJg_V-edQ/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">DORRITOS CLASS 3D MODEL DOWNLOAD LINK</a> </h2>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1cIyuMVq4DqrudX6X1YBgFEpeBna6F2jT/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">D-10M 3D MODEL DOWNLOAD LINK</a> </h2>
SITZKRIEG!http://www.blogger.com/profile/05236105506126383773noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7520041077030819244.post-72289721703928723092020-07-16T17:00:00.000-04:002020-07-19T21:15:23.885-04:00Quick update... Shadowrun Mage Heroclix RepaintI worked on the second half of the heroclix figure that I used for my Troll character figure. She started as a Red She-Hulk figure (hence the skin color) that I repainted and added magic effects via 3d printing in clear resin. Yes, I've accomplished what cheap prepainted miniatures did in 2006! Hey, it's still a first for me.<br />
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I'm happy with the detail and color of the clear resin (that I colored bluish via a wash to less than stellar results). Somehow the figure didn't seem too dark in tone despite having jet black hair and clothing but now seems like it after I repainted her in dark grey clothes. I keep debating whether I should strip the paint off completely as it shouldn't damage the resin itself as people have been using acetone to clean resin post printing in the post-Covid rubbing alcohol shortage. For now, I'll leave her alone but I may revisit this figure at a later date.SITZKRIEG!http://www.blogger.com/profile/05236105506126383773noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7520041077030819244.post-83503912847446421932020-07-10T17:00:00.000-04:002020-07-10T17:00:00.855-04:00Still alive.. and making RPG character models!It's been a few weeks of silence so I figured it was about time to show signs of (hobby) life here on the blog for the world to see! While I haven't been a busy bee like Ashley over at the Paint it Pink blog (<a href="http://panther6actual.blogspot.co.uk/" target="_blank">link</a>), I've done a small bit during the past month.<br />
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I finally got around to some easy painting with a redo of some heroclix figs I picked up a while back for RPG characters. One was initially for the Starfinder campaign that I'm in but I decided to go with my Krogan character instead of this Suli-jann Solarian. The original fig is the Caiera clix model from the Planet Hulk series that I rebased and repainted relatively quickly. I'm not entirely happy with the results though (too much wash in the armpit for example) but I've already overcoated the models and don't want to strip them completely to redo it. The second one was a troll personal assistant character (think half bodyguard/half butler!) for use in Shadowrun. That one came from a Hulk clix double model that I converted with a troll-like horn and a more appropriately sized 3d printed pistol. He actually came based alongside a Red She-Hulk model that I can also convert into a Shadowrun character model as well so you may see that sometime on the blog as well. Hopefully I've improved my eye technique since my Lt. Googely Eyes Hussar model; I really did have to make the eyes tiny in ever shrinking steps despite my gut instinct to get the result above instead of what happened before. This is just average work and not even my best by far but it's basically a single weekend's worth of effort from start to finish (including drying time!) and more importantly completed work unlike my ever growing 3d printed pile of unpainted shame. :)<br />
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Additionally, I printed out both of the 40k Lieutenants previewed in my
last post but the Space Wolf was marred by multiple misprints. I was
testing out a new slicing program that apparently requires more manual
supporting of models than I initially expected based on youtube
reviews. The Blood Angel did turn out well but I plan on redoing his
loincloth icon as it wasn't extruded enough in the print unfortunately
to be much of a visible detail after priming/painting. I printed him
out at a smaller traditional marine scale (32mm) so I may still assemble
him and leave the revised version for a possible later full scale 40mm
primaris fig.<br />
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<br />SITZKRIEG!http://www.blogger.com/profile/05236105506126383773noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7520041077030819244.post-4964296571730472122020-06-08T18:29:00.000-04:002020-06-10T13:19:25.527-04:00Too many cooks? More 40k Lieutenants!While it's only been a few weeks since my last update, it's been a few months since I worked on any 40k 3d model conversions after my initial attempt at a grimdark Winged Hussar was taken down.
I've still been visiting the various websites to see what others are
uploading though and something piqued my interest. There was a recent take on Krom Dragongaze (<a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4432381" rel="nofollow" target="_new">link</a>) uploaded using the same base model by MrMcAngry (<a href="https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/not-a-prime-bloody-lt" rel="nofollow" target="_new">link</a>)
that I previously used for a different Blood Angel Lieutenant so I
decided to tweak him into something more customized for a
potential <span class="glossaryitem">RPG</span>
character. It's not really visible below but the space wolf does have a full wolf
pelt on the backside of his cape whereas the blood angel has a
full bolter instead of a pistol. I hope to run a print this upcoming weekend with these two
models (probably in smaller true 28mm scale rather than 40mm for
primaris) so will update the thread with actual model pics if I do. I don't plan on uploading either though to any website.<br />
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Edit: Since initially posting, I've tweaked the model a bit more. I shrunk the head a bit so that it would actually fit inside a helmet and also reduced the size of the axe blades a bit. I'm a bit unsure about the latter as I've found that weapons that look "right" on a 3d model tend to be too fragile and undersized when actually printed but I'll see if that holds true this time. Additionally, I made the pelt on his cape significantly larger as it looked like he decorated his armor with an adolescent wolf's pelt instead of a more fearsome adult's.<br />
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<br />SITZKRIEG!http://www.blogger.com/profile/05236105506126383773noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7520041077030819244.post-74322700262562904092020-05-25T14:45:00.000-04:002020-05-25T14:45:21.878-04:00Quarantine Kitchen Sink UpdateHello to everyone and I hope all are doing as well as possible during this pandemic. It's been a while since I last updated the blog and initially I hoped that the extra time would lead to increased hobby progress. Unfortunately, that hasn't panned out and the only project I've accomplished is growing my first beard. :)<br />
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I haven't been totally comatose though so I decided to post a kitchen sink update instead of boring folks with multiple smaller ones. My most recent project, my digital Winged Hussar (<a href="https://sitzkrieg.blogspot.com/2020/03/the-winged-hussars-arrive-in-3d.html" target="_blank">link here</a>) was unfortunately C&D'ed by GW as apparently they claim ownership of all future grimdark space Poles. Shortly after uploading, it disappeared from my account and it took me over a month to get a response from Thingiverse letting me know that GW had claimed my model and forced its removal. Strangely, many of the component parts are still there as are thousands of other 40k models so I have no idea why they targeted it (along with a couple dozen others for DMCA takedown) as they included no justification. I have to say that it put a damper on me continuing that project. I had initially wanted to convert one of the new official Master Lazarus models to a Winged Hussar but the idea of giving them $40 plus shipping/tax is much less likely now. I completed another conversion parts set that will likely never be uploaded and Lt. Googely Eyes will have to do for now if I ever need an RPG figure.<br />
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CBS All Access offered everyone a free month so I was able to catch up on two seasons of nuTrek. I'd previously written up a very lengthy review of Season One of Discovery (<a href="https://sitzkrieg.blogspot.com/2018/02/to-boldly-reboot-star-trek-discovery.html" target="_blank">linked here</a>) so I wasn't particularly optimistic given that the same folks were still involved in running the show(s) and that reviews written since weren't particularly flattering. I will neither be verbose nor include any spoilers so no worries if you haven't watched either of the recent seasons.<br />
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Picard was, as expected, a major disappointment. Admittedly, like with the movie JJverse, they did set the expectations early on with the star stating that it would NOT be like TNG and that it would, more recently, focus on real world hot button issues like President Trump's election and the Brexit vote. Sadly, those descriptions of the direction of the show were spot on and it was a complete mess except for one (possibly overly nostalgic) episode. If you're a long time fan who pines for an optimistic view of the future that Star Trek used to be known for, look elsewhere. Heck, the TNG Mirror Universe comics are probably a more optimistic and hopeful depiction of Star Trek than this show. As for Discovery Season 2, it was a definite improvement and approaches "OK" with some actual exploration and an ensemble cast doing trekky things before it devolves yet again into a CGI schlockfest of action you can't make out while Michael Burnham saves the universe. While I don't have any hope for Season 3 of Discovery, the Pike/Spock/Number One dynamic was a definite improvement (albeit still flawed) and the recent announcement of another spinoff show focused on them might prove the adage correct about the third time being the charm.<br />
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On the home 3d modelling and printing front, I've mainly focused on random RPG characters for the Starfinder campaign that I'm playing in. I've done up multiple versions of the Krogan that I'm playing as well as a flying space monkey in armor (based on Overwatch's Winston), a small round alien mechanic/gunner (based a Mass Effect Volus with 40k bits), and a skittercommando (a Starfinder iconic race). I haven't actually painted up any models yet as my campaign has gone virtual (and intermittent) but I do hope to at least finish a Krogan this month. <br />
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And, finally, I did finish cutting up and printing out the various parts for my 3d Heavy Gear models with some mixed results. I resized and reproportioned both the Hunter and the Grizzly but I can't help but disagree with my initial assessment that something closer to the official models would be an improvement. Judging them on their individual merits, I think the "chunkier" versions are better. Overall, I also think that the Hunter XMG is better suited to home 3d printing than the Grizzly and will likely at some point paint that one up to match my army colors.<br />
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Well, that's my bimonthly update for now! Thanks for reading and I hope to have some more progress to post at the end of the month.<br />
<br />SITZKRIEG!http://www.blogger.com/profile/05236105506126383773noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7520041077030819244.post-49377358069794598112020-03-15T14:01:00.002-04:002020-03-15T14:01:17.653-04:00The Winged Hussars arrive... in 3D!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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It's been a while since I worked on my custom Winged Hussars chapter but I finally got around to the project but this time on the virtual hobby desk with a 3d model for the chapter. I practiced first with both samurai and Ultramarine 3d models I've already posted here and now I've made a Winged Hussar variant using the same pose inspired by the Amulius model.<br />
<br />I made a custom shouder pad using the hussar symbol of the Polish 1st Armoured Division that served with the British in World War 2 (<a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1st_Armoured_Division_(Poland)" target="_blank">link here</a>) as well as a Polish eagle converted into a double headed 40k style Imperial Aquila for his shin. Hopefully that along with the actual wings on the back and a suitably slavic moustache will give the model enough visual flare on the tabletop. If you're interested in downloading the model for free and printing it out yourself, feel free to check it on thingiverse here: <br />
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<a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4224010" target="_blank">3d model download link</a></div>
<br />SITZKRIEG!http://www.blogger.com/profile/05236105506126383773noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7520041077030819244.post-17868459983551013392020-03-09T18:10:00.000-04:002020-03-09T18:27:32.821-04:00Goldilocks and the Three GearsI thankfully had both (relatively) warm and dry weather over the weekend and was able to print out a round of Heavy Gears. I resized the various proportions and printed out both the Panda/Grizzly and Hunter XMG as multipiece models. While the former turned out well, the latter had a misprint and needs another round of printing. I was able to assemble the heavy support gear and decided to build it up as a Destroyer Grizzly armed with a heavy bazooka.<br />
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On center left is the original versin and on the right is the resized one. While it's not evident from my photography, the detail is crisper than the original and, more importantly, crisper than it appears on screen. It's still not equal to the traditionally cast metal minis from the official line but an improvement over the original. I'm not entirely sure I've gotten the resin settings exactly dialed in and might attempt some test cube prints if I can find something useful.<br />
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I have to admit though that I'm not entirely happy with the new proportions as they now appear too thin which is surprising since I only shrunk the model on the XY plane by about 5% according to the statistics. Much like the blog post title hints at, I might need to print out a third with proportions in between to get it just right since I'll be doing a third run regardless for the printer. With that model, I'll also try out a different weapon loadout as well with the traditional panda minigun instead. SITZKRIEG!http://www.blogger.com/profile/05236105506126383773noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7520041077030819244.post-47715857325228289302020-03-02T09:56:00.000-05:002020-03-03T11:55:02.386-05:00Courage and Honour! Ultramarine Primaris Captain 3d ModelFor some inexplicable reason, I revisted my idea for remixing (i.e. digitally converting) a 40k primaris Ultramarine captain this weekend instead of working on my recent Heavy Gear models or painting my Rising Son 3d printed marines (<a href="https://sitzkrieg.blogspot.com/search/label/Rising%20Sons" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">link</a>). In between faffing about (since I'm using proper British spelling/nomenclature this post!) and watching series 2 of Altered Carbon, I combined over a dozen different files from thingiverse to make this 3d model.<br />
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<a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4196619" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">3d Model Link</a></div>
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Hopefully he is suitably ornate to represent an officer of his fine chapter! I haven't played the game regularly since 5th edition (it's currently 8th) so I can't comment as to whether his loadout is optimal on the tabletop. Regardless, he's armed with a relic chainsword, bolt rifle, bolt pistol, and iron halo. If anyone prints it out or has any ideas on how to improve him visually, feel free to comment below. <br />
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Edit: I've added a second variant to the model at the same link as above that I'd like to call the Lion of Ultramar for obvious reasons. :)<br />
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SITZKRIEG!http://www.blogger.com/profile/05236105506126383773noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7520041077030819244.post-72972524769852418822020-02-25T21:57:00.000-05:002020-02-26T08:20:33.756-05:00A Pyrrhic 3d Print? My first Heavy Gear attemptAs mentioned in the last post, I attempted to accentuate the details on the model that weren't likely to print successfully like rivets and thin armor plates. When zoomed in, the 3d models look pretty good!<br />
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These were an absolute pain to support properly but eventually after a few hours I was ready to print despite multiple crashes of the slicing program. The print didn't have any obvious failures but it looks like both the depth of details and the overall scale aren't dialed in yet.<br />
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The print was done at 50 micron layer height with anti-aliasing enabled which normally turn out better than shown above. The smaller Hunter XMG looks to have crisper corners but both could use some improvement in that regard as well as further thickening of details when possible. Additionally, they're a bit bigger than I expected compared with the official models. The hunter is simply too big but the grizzly is a bit too wide (though the height is good). <br />
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As you can see in the unassembled picture, I did have an issue with weak joints on the models with a limb fracture on each while attempting to remove the supports. Admittedly I could have been more gentle but there were a TON of supports to remove and I had to pull off areas of light supports as a group when possible. The supports under the groin and butt plate were so thick that they were effectively a solid scaffold a few millimeters away from the surface of the model instead of a series of vertical trunks. I've never had fractures like that in the past using the same technique so I definitely think the modular nature of the models (as opposed to models that are one piece) contributed to the weakness. On the plus side, I do think that the overall look of the models is good and will fit in with the other HG figs I have both in the Blitz scale shown above as well as the older RAFM scale that I've covered previously.<br />
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To cut down on the density (but not total number!) of supports needed, I've separated the models into a trio of parts each(engine, upper torso, lower limbs). I've also done a third round of thickening of details like the rivets, hip armor plates, and antennae so that they'll be more stable and obvious. Finally, I'm adjusting the individual dimensions/proportions of the models overall to better resemble those of the official models. I hope to have positive things to report with my next round of printing this weekend!<br />
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SITZKRIEG!http://www.blogger.com/profile/05236105506126383773noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7520041077030819244.post-39419055084731804732020-02-19T17:41:00.000-05:002020-02-19T17:41:19.078-05:00Introducing my custom Heavy Gear Panda and Hunter XMG!Recently, I was toying around with 3d modelling when I decided to try and extract the 3d models from the Heavy Gear Assault game. Unlike last time, I was successful after an update of the programs used to accomplish it! After looking through the models and animations, I settled on their Hunter and Grizzly models. Both look significantly different from the original RPG and tabletop versions but luckily had "advanced" updates in the fluff that they could represent.<br />
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The Hunter was the simplest as it had a prebuilt model in the files so I started with that one. I went through and removed various bits and bobs that are unlikely to print at such a small scale (whether Blitz or Rafm) as well as thickening up things that need to stay but have similar issues. I added some extra details to make it more like the XMG like the head comm vanes and the shoulder armor ram plates (from Lego bricks!) as well as virtually kitbashing the MAC and rocket pod. I also replaced the in game riot shield with another from thingiverse instead.<br />
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The grizzly was more difficult in that it needed to be preassembled from individual parts due to the in game armor damage and customization systems. I went through the same process with this model to instead turn it into a Panda upgrade. More parts were free-floating and disconnected in this model so hopefully it will print ok when that time comes. With the Panda, I needed a very heavy autocannon (think 40k assault gun or scifi chaingun) and I kitbashed one from a Titanfall weapon and the ingame gun. I was hoping to give it a more angular look since it's a northern gear but hopefully it's still obvious enough as to what it is. Similarly, I assembled from various parts the larger rocket pod and put it on the shoulder as it couldn't fit in back with the heavy mortar. I also cobbled together tracks for the feet as they were missing (maybe they're a texture image file in game?).<br />
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Surprisingly, the pc game has both gears built on pretty much the same height skeletons so I decreased the size of the Hunter XMG by 15% to give me what turns out to be RPG artwork accurate relative heights between them (thanks Alberorius!). With Ashley's help with RAFM measurements, I'll compare them to the RAFM physical models as well as the Blitz scale ones. After a few more cleanup inspections, I'll be trying to print them out hopefully this weekend. Wish me luck! <br />
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<br />SITZKRIEG!http://www.blogger.com/profile/05236105506126383773noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7520041077030819244.post-89540041994078034202020-02-14T21:37:00.000-05:002020-02-15T10:51:46.989-05:00A Surprise Heavy Gear Fandom Retrospective!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Recently I've been working on posing and tweaking a Hunter 3d model from the defunct and incomplete Heavy Gear Assault game and the effort has surprisingly made me nostalgic again for the IP. I've been both constructive (with my Heavy Gear Flash! house rules) and critical in the past on the blog but never really explained why I became interested in the game initially and still am despite their efforts to the contrary.<br />
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When the game came out in 1994, my only real experience in gaming was basically limited to a small handful of games. The Rifts and Robotech rpgs by Palladium books were my gateway into the hobby and on the minis side I mainly played a very niche hand typed and bound historical/fantasy ruleset called Spear and Shield along with the FASA Star Trek ship combat game. I had some minor experience with other big name systems like D&D 2nd edition, Gurps, and Warhammer (both FB and 40k) but they were typically one time experiences like demos that didn't catch my permanent interest. I was familiar though with Dream Pod 9 from their work on Palladium's Macross 2 RPG supplements as well as their Mecha Press magazine. I really liked their overall style and modern (for its time) art filled desktop publishing layout which was a huge break from the simple typed hand layout with the occasional single piece of art per column or page style that was the baseline in 1980's RPGs.<br />
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In the spring of 1994, I started seeing advertisements for a clearly VOTOM inspired RPG and miniatures game called Heavy Gear by the same company. Being a fan of VOTOMS (or more specifically the Scope Dog designs), I was really excited for it. Better yet, it was premiering that year at GenCon and I was already planning on going to the convention for the first time! I signed up for multiple sessions of the game and enjoyed them all. The RAFM lead miniatures used were both affordable and a great representation of the consistently great art by Ghislain Barbe. The RPG and tactical rules were a single purpose built ground up coherent system that was a breath of fresh air from the typical core D&D style fantasy systems with scifi elements crudely bolted on that I was used to. It really was the perfect combination for a cashed strapped part time employed student gamer who was into mech-based anime as well as both tabletop and RPG games! I was hooked that weekend and picked up every book for several years and most minis for my chosen faction (the North) as well as a smattering for the South.<br />
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It may not seem special nowadays but it really did feel revolutionary at the time for me compared with what I was used to. Something as simple as the paratrooper gears (like the Hunter Commando above) excited me to no end. I'd look at the miniature and see cool things like roll bars, padding, and air brakes that made a design I already liked different but varied! When I looked at the rules, they actually reflected those changes in a coherent way both in the miniatures and RPG game via rules like the airdroppable and rugged movement system perks that were developed long BEFORE they were needed. This wasn't just another throwaway line in a random piece of equipment but rather something practical that seamlessly meshed both with the backstory and mechanics. It was clear that alot of effort went into building all this way before the first product came out and it showed. It's been that initial love of the game and the world that has kept me periodically coming back in for over 25 years.SITZKRIEG!http://www.blogger.com/profile/05236105506126383773noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7520041077030819244.post-43083666150234958462020-01-25T21:38:00.001-05:002020-01-26T09:20:00.418-05:00State of the Blog Address (2019 in Review)I have to say that this year passed by quickly! It's basically a blog tradition that I go over what I did and didn't accomplish over the past 12 months and this year is yet again a bit of a mixed bag. I'm the traditional hobby front, 2019 wasn't unfortunately much different than the prior year. I managed to finish what I thought would be my final Winged Hussar (<a href="https://sitzkrieg.blogspot.com/2019/06/lt-amulius-completed-primaris-winged.html" target="_blank">link here</a>) as well as four figs for basically the same rpg character idea. Why so many? Well, the character changed as well as my ideas of how to portray him. The first fig (<a href="https://sitzkrieg.blogspot.com/2019/02/now-i-just-need-rpg-group.html" target="_blank">link here</a>) was printed on shapeways for a previous defunct campaign attempt whereas the others were done at home on my only big hobby project purchase, the Elegoo Mars 3d printer.<br />
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I had previously thought I was done with my hussar project but the upcoming release of Master Lazarus for 40k as well as a free 3d model from Artel W might convince me to dip my toes back into that pool later this year. In the meantime, I've taken a stab at samurai inspired space marines instead with some success (<a href="https://sitzkrieg.blogspot.com/search/label/Rising%20Sons" target="_blank">link here</a>) that I have yet to paint as well as a Space Wolf that at least I finished (<a href="https://sitzkrieg.blogspot.com/2019/09/lazy-summer-days-or-are-they.html" target="_blank">link here</a>).<br />
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<i>Too big...too small...just right!</i></div>
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On the Star Trek front, I made a few entries to my SHIELD UP! house rules section. While I didn't end up revising my Fasa STSTCS ship manual, I revised the existing D-15 FASA ship (<a href="https://sitzkrieg.blogspot.com/2019/03/d-15-klingon-command-cruiser-refit.html" target="_blank">link here</a>) as well as added the Atlas dreadnought to my STA house rules (<a href="https://sitzkrieg.blogspot.com/2019/03/the-atlas-dreadnought-now-in-full.html" target="_blank">link here</a>). I also decided to test out a theory regarding whether you could noticeably improve prepainted heroclix minis with a quick wash and/or drybrush (<a href="https://sitzkrieg.blogspot.com/2019/07/star-trek-heroclix-worth-quick-touchup.html" target="_blank">link here</a>). Finally, I came up with some more nuanced rules for playing STA in the Enterprise/NX era of trek (<a href="https://sitzkrieg.blogspot.com/2019/07/birth-of-federation-nx-era-rules-for-sta.html" target="_blank">link here</a>). In that same update, I previewed a 3d version of my old NXL ship design which later got a test print or two (<a href="https://sitzkrieg.blogspot.com/2019/09/supporting-your-miniatures-literally.html" target="_blank">link here</a>) but I never did more with them. It's not alot but I suppose an optimistic way to look at it would be that I put out at least quarterly trek updates if averaged out for the year. I don't have any ambitious plans for the trek side of the hobby but I do hope to revisit printing my NXL design now that I'm more experienced with supporting prints as well as coming out with a short Klingon D-7 update for FASA. I generally need a direct motivation for my hobby work and the lack of any real chance of playing anything trek related locally unfortunately hampers that.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjedHDUoJfEQ20h-p5YXokV4P4oQ2tMu16yaPX5nLnBRkotmfMP4wEpSQnB8gy4H4IAxgIqWskHGjTD5kIRepEh2FoSvTAetJGHY0awdSk13JMAAHU-tn9WtxBtZtJPGognmvnmeKP9OYs/s1600/NXRbottomcomp.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" title=""><img border="0" data-original-height="1011" data-original-width="1600" height="403" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjedHDUoJfEQ20h-p5YXokV4P4oQ2tMu16yaPX5nLnBRkotmfMP4wEpSQnB8gy4H4IAxgIqWskHGjTD5kIRepEh2FoSvTAetJGHY0awdSk13JMAAHU-tn9WtxBtZtJPGognmvnmeKP9OYs/s640/NXRbottomcomp.JPG" title="" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i> Cactus Trek!</i></div>
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Ending the recap on a positive note, I was finally able to find a relatively stable rpg group this past year. While I'm not enamored particularly with the ruleset (<a href="https://sitzkrieg.blogspot.com/2018/03/starfinder-rpg-and-dead-suns-campaign.html" target="_blank">review link</a>), it works for me as a player and we've been managing a monthly game since the summer. It's because of that campaign that I've been focused more on my Krogan miniatures than the others. I'd love it if we were playing longer than the 3-4 hours per session we average as well as playing every two weeks as originally planned instead of monthly but it's a good group of easy going players and I'm glad to have them. With that, my yearly TL;DR hobby therapy session post is over and I wish everyone a happy 2020!<br />
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<i>Another upcoming Krogan RPG character mini!</i></div>
SITZKRIEG!http://www.blogger.com/profile/05236105506126383773noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7520041077030819244.post-36871383125738082872019-12-29T22:54:00.000-05:002019-12-29T22:54:04.370-05:00Dialing in the size and resolution... Rising Son V3.0!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvaiPZqCK8I0GaNeDxnAm68kULejv58goKg9nQ80yd8aGhV9VStEoCTL9nKlYolVTLZchEmV9ASXqsU_DTSTxWIl-6aY-uSLO-AEqO7X5ZKax_lPHksH1rkl1Do1OGmaSAOs-8cvTvvjI/s1600/RisingSonFamilyPhoto.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="950" data-original-width="1600" height="378" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvaiPZqCK8I0GaNeDxnAm68kULejv58goKg9nQ80yd8aGhV9VStEoCTL9nKlYolVTLZchEmV9ASXqsU_DTSTxWIl-6aY-uSLO-AEqO7X5ZKax_lPHksH1rkl1Do1OGmaSAOs-8cvTvvjI/s640/RisingSonFamilyPhoto.JPG" title="" width="640" /></a></div>
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I had some time this weekend and decided to asymetrically resize the same pose and support structure and reprint the model at 50 microns. I fully admit that this was the easy way out but I figured I'd give it a shot to check out the proportions as well as the more typical 50 micron layer height that I normally print at. At about 6 1/2 hours print time, I'd personally say that the detail and the proportions compared with the official primaris marine are both pretty good though there is a softness on certain parts of the face and aquilla on the more recent print compared with the previous one. We still didn't have any real direct sunshine to speak of with another pair of rainy days so the resin remains a bit rubbery (and wet from the water rinse in the case of the newest print as I took the pics right after!) so it's still a bit hard to make out the details in the pics. After some post curing, it'll be off to painting for the smaller RPG scale and correct scale marine but I think I'll leave the primarch scale print as is. Now I just need to find out what paint scheme I intend to use. I'll definitely do a base of gloss black but I'm not sure of what color highlights and details that I'll end up using.<br /><br />SITZKRIEG!http://www.blogger.com/profile/05236105506126383773noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7520041077030819244.post-15720651248512536732019-12-27T17:49:00.000-05:002019-12-27T17:51:55.033-05:00Rising Son One Piece 3d Test Print<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9223WoudmRwa_9TK4xPHFFGRk-efV86u8nZkLB1Ha5efYgU9lAA0EtofhNv1Rq68TgIOrqy7rzfR9H9r43pfDSAuiGxm5-T4coeQVUKKPt2EJYHPAMv5U_PkmDUiScUhCSnJOS01qvSM/s1600/RSon1pcSizeComp2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1018" data-original-width="1600" height="406" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9223WoudmRwa_9TK4xPHFFGRk-efV86u8nZkLB1Ha5efYgU9lAA0EtofhNv1Rq68TgIOrqy7rzfR9H9r43pfDSAuiGxm5-T4coeQVUKKPt2EJYHPAMv5U_PkmDUiScUhCSnJOS01qvSM/s640/RSon1pcSizeComp2.JPG" title="" width="640" /></a></div>
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I finally got around to printing the one piece assembled Rising Son marine and the results are definitely interesting. I resized the model from the previously printed one to 85% but it looks visually like it's closer to 66%!<br />
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There are a couple of reasons that could contribute to that seeming discrepancy in size. The first is that previously I printed the parts separately so the little gaps with glue could increase the size of the final model whereas I definitely overlapped them when combined it all digitally. Second, resin does shrink both with printing and temperature and the ambient temperature was 10-15 degrees below my previous print that was done during a relative winter heat wave in my area. It's supposed to only be a 1-2% but maybe it's more. Additionally, this was done with a slightly different resin (same manufacturer but now with an "ABS-like" moniker added to it) so maybe that contributed. I virtually measured the model to the top of the hair and the final result is only about 1mm below what I expected; it was supposed to match the Amulius in height but the picture isn't an exact comparison as Amulius is sculpted onto a small 2mm high rubble platform on top of the 40mm base. The final and biggest difference is likely the various proportions in that the official primaris model while better proportioned than normal marines is still far enough from human shaped to make a difference. With my previous 3d printed models, I noticed that I definitely needed to "thicken" models 10-20% to get them to look good on the tabletop versus good on the screen. When I arrange the next marine pose, I'll probably increase the height by 5% and the width/depth by 10% to give them bulk more consistent with the official models. <br />
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The good news is that at least at first glance I don't see any obvious miscasts. The sword edge is a bit chipped and I had to level out the butt plate as it was edge was a bit curved so I sanded it down. The parts that I was worried about ahead of time like the helmet and chest horns and banner actually came out IMO pretty good. I still have to cure the model (which will probably take a few days given the lack of daytime direct sunlight forecast locally) as well as trim a few more nubs but I did what I could with the rubbery flexible resin without damaging it.<br />
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I don't want to sound like I'm unhappy with the results as I'm not but
just wanted to hit the potential issues first in the post. Regardless
of the above, I'm actually happy with the size of this first 1pc model
even if I plan to change further prints. This particular model actually
fits quite well on a 25mm base and makes for a good RPG model as it's
more in scale with other figs compared with official primaris. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisjknc0cx44OSsDrMzlXbu5MyrqasEtOWVgM6CLWxdurOtVgGJlWcwylXaA57mHQPPgfSqL3ZDx4LEYFMg5Gnbk1dhpCu9hOR7F35evVjMaGhdNDWaXGXEgp318k8bXAHTx8RXci2f4sE/s1600/RSon1pcFront.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;" title=""><img border="0" data-original-height="1113" data-original-width="678" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisjknc0cx44OSsDrMzlXbu5MyrqasEtOWVgM6CLWxdurOtVgGJlWcwylXaA57mHQPPgfSqL3ZDx4LEYFMg5Gnbk1dhpCu9hOR7F35evVjMaGhdNDWaXGXEgp318k8bXAHTx8RXci2f4sE/s400/RSon1pcFront.JPG" title="" width="242" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXbx4HBUEnhIpVx5mi5NshlAnhrMpsylhWxbyTyUjpnrgVhObxlMPk742XlAJaujCYqgi9tj6uhvfxY2Y-ie_IyGyJuf0WEuz9rXCBQJ6hdNYUZnQhUGqm1gqBbwwxfddS2Rgkm6_01MA/s1600/RSon1pcBack.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" title=""><img border="0" data-original-height="1077" data-original-width="575" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXbx4HBUEnhIpVx5mi5NshlAnhrMpsylhWxbyTyUjpnrgVhObxlMPk742XlAJaujCYqgi9tj6uhvfxY2Y-ie_IyGyJuf0WEuz9rXCBQJ6hdNYUZnQhUGqm1gqBbwwxfddS2Rgkm6_01MA/s400/RSon1pcBack.JPG" title="" width="212" /></a></div>
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<br />SITZKRIEG!http://www.blogger.com/profile/05236105506126383773noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7520041077030819244.post-80152223658846957582019-12-12T12:03:00.000-05:002019-12-12T12:03:54.293-05:00Rising Sons Primaris Marine Test Model<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHYNsmnL35MPU7zegF81y4p0MP1zfqkual2iIRqy_24yMu1k0EoTbcpEhDCX44cmngBWY6tXQoWJCouVDmHZExljbESxyj3MmXzKDKo2n9vjXfd_BihmyuKR5BRh2cpH_RmJ_pv0m8FYk/s1600/RisingSonSizeComp.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" title=""><img border="0" data-original-height="1356" data-original-width="1600" height="540" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHYNsmnL35MPU7zegF81y4p0MP1zfqkual2iIRqy_24yMu1k0EoTbcpEhDCX44cmngBWY6tXQoWJCouVDmHZExljbESxyj3MmXzKDKo2n9vjXfd_BihmyuKR5BRh2cpH_RmJ_pv0m8FYk/s640/RisingSonSizeComp.JPG" title="" width="640" /></a></div>
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Well, it took a few days of printing due to misprints as well as another couple of days in order to have enough sunshine to post cure the model parts but I finally printed and assembled my first Rising Sons primaris marine. I printed him out bigger (closer to primarch size than primaris) in order to see how the details resolved and overall I'm happy with the results.<br />
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I printed him out in pieces and assembled him as you would a normal marine but I think the next rescaled version I'll attempt to print at the "correct" size. I do see some things that I want to change though to make sure the model will be durable enough to see play on the tabletop potentially. You may notice that he isn't using a chainsword katana as I had many problems trying to get that to print correctly with the teeth on both sides of the sword so I switched it to a power katana instead. I suppose that will necessitate a promotion to Lieutenant as well. :) Additionally I turned the sword inward for stability reasons as the separately printed parts left a rather fragile wrist; that shouldn't be an issue with the one piece model though but I would like to hear whether the sword position is better like this.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEEJ116Hq4QgJRYLHgoxUdAuItOdLywrCRU-YhNdteNo5VMSftPuF9g6fwLDwkVQXR8k7ALaalfA3L6rpMc8Az7K2XQpow1a070kY2ZziZ9ApDKNAFdbuuRNNqEAESegNw-HEhfOUBXVc/s1600/RisingSonMisprints.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="959" data-original-width="1600" height="238" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEEJ116Hq4QgJRYLHgoxUdAuItOdLywrCRU-YhNdteNo5VMSftPuF9g6fwLDwkVQXR8k7ALaalfA3L6rpMc8Az7K2XQpow1a070kY2ZziZ9ApDKNAFdbuuRNNqEAESegNw-HEhfOUBXVc/s400/RisingSonMisprints.JPG" title="" width="400" /></a></div>
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I also had a misprint where the supports weren't solid enough on the exhausts of the backpack so I took the opportunity to redo that as well since the Cyberpunk Oni symbol was too fine to survive priming printing. I'm still not happy with the overall dimensions of the back banner though and will likely redo it again with the rescale. I'm leaning towards using the sashimono style banner but redoing it as a traditional 2nd edition 40k T-shaped sergeant banner. I'll have to thicken up the parts significantly as even at primarch scale (52mm to the top of the head) they're quite fragile. I'm not sure what icon I'll use (aquilla? raptor? oni head?) as well and wouldn't mind some feedback on all of the above. Here are the other pics from different angles.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPwDDA9W6A28q4YXUV_PXWDakMxA3iP6HdeT0cRLaZNU7SKLejbwC4-xMToXAspljvQ3ZNtZhvbqYoW3btssWcVhRVo7POAC4swjwdD1t_1rV8z72BZ91qRV2BOOQuyXCZv0cVhVNFbok/s1600/RisingSonFront.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" title=""><img border="0" data-original-height="1457" data-original-width="1133" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPwDDA9W6A28q4YXUV_PXWDakMxA3iP6HdeT0cRLaZNU7SKLejbwC4-xMToXAspljvQ3ZNtZhvbqYoW3btssWcVhRVo7POAC4swjwdD1t_1rV8z72BZ91qRV2BOOQuyXCZv0cVhVNFbok/s400/RisingSonFront.JPG" title="" width="310" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXPmvTdrH_b9-Hors2ayk24LAaB1EEXO3mGckrtjyMGzKjD5lUMYVa7RtkfhtRABqLD_606T97B2PJqDZ7y84kQv_emYRCa7VMbs3xzg-vTZvwc2rM4b7GRrsSdPX6yxQqvGZy5DCuUlY/s1600/RisingSonLeft.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1341" data-original-width="1073" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXPmvTdrH_b9-Hors2ayk24LAaB1EEXO3mGckrtjyMGzKjD5lUMYVa7RtkfhtRABqLD_606T97B2PJqDZ7y84kQv_emYRCa7VMbs3xzg-vTZvwc2rM4b7GRrsSdPX6yxQqvGZy5DCuUlY/s400/RisingSonLeft.JPG" title="" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRR4afraWFImw5R8c00cxGHE58QS7V3pqfyVg7NsIPCq7XW1kR_DPIItRa90m9tnnz8w7unGv9jIg9uQiUutSXy1fyqP0KIg-pKukDTC60wiQEyKTi0zgCl_KFlO7zTbGogi2ufjW8xno/s1600/RisingSonRIght.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1473" data-original-width="1061" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRR4afraWFImw5R8c00cxGHE58QS7V3pqfyVg7NsIPCq7XW1kR_DPIItRa90m9tnnz8w7unGv9jIg9uQiUutSXy1fyqP0KIg-pKukDTC60wiQEyKTi0zgCl_KFlO7zTbGogi2ufjW8xno/s400/RisingSonRIght.JPG" title="" width="287" /></a></div>
<br />SITZKRIEG!http://www.blogger.com/profile/05236105506126383773noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7520041077030819244.post-33734482238946650772019-12-04T19:36:00.001-05:002019-12-04T19:36:28.080-05:00Rising Sons Samurai Space Marines ProjectMy previous attempt at a historical conversion of Primaris marines into Polish Winged Hussars went well enough (<a href="https://sitzkrieg.blogspot.com/search/label/Winged%20Hussars" target="_blank">link here</a>) so I figured I'd give another famous warrior group a shot. In the months since, I got my first 3d printer (a resin SLA Elegoo Mars) and have been experimenting mainly with figs for an RPG campaign I'm in. A whole bunch of high quality primaris style 3D model uploads are on thingiverse so I decided I'd try my hand at a fully virtual conversion and settled on a Samurai motif. I suspect the general familiarity with samurai armor is pretty high so I won't post pics of historical resources used for inspiration like I did with my Winged Hussar project. The main samurai components that sparked my interest were uploaded by indignentshrew on Thingiverse (<a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/indignentshrew/designs" target="_blank">link here</a>). I'm still resizing the various parts for primaris and deciding on the various design flourishes I plan to add but this is the initial mock up of my first Rising Sons Intercessor Sergeant. Please note that I can't 3D model anything more than a simple cube or sphere so am limited to the more traditional physical conversion techniques of cutting/pasting from existing sources (3d models in this case instead of from my bitz box!).<br /><br /><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjG8yqBIIIiSFsNn37r-jFx7cAFoo7klEuKjAYSHluT1qd47v_spzqzj4tuUNMwzjlzeOzPlEtKDYzM9R9ljcUi8rgwcHfRFhEMMxo1RD_Hepcc6ueXCEVnErQyCaTmHG8W2sqLBRY7FnU/s1600/RisingSonsWIPv1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="834" data-original-width="935" height="356" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjG8yqBIIIiSFsNn37r-jFx7cAFoo7klEuKjAYSHluT1qd47v_spzqzj4tuUNMwzjlzeOzPlEtKDYzM9R9ljcUi8rgwcHfRFhEMMxo1RD_Hepcc6ueXCEVnErQyCaTmHG8W2sqLBRY7FnU/s400/RisingSonsWIPv1.jpg" title="" width="400" /></a></div>
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It's hard to make out but the icon on his chest aquilla and on his
sashimono banner is the Cyberpunk 2077 Samurai logo. I have serious
doubts as to both (especially the chest) printing correctly so I do
expect to adapt them this week. Additionally, I'm not entirely happy
with the size of the sashimono so will likely enlarge that as well as
reposition the chainsword katana a bit more at an angle. In case it
wasn't obvious, my primaris inspiration for this pose was the recent
event exclusive Lieutenant Amulius figure that I also used to convert my
Lt. Googely Eyes Winged Hussar. :)SITZKRIEG!http://www.blogger.com/profile/05236105506126383773noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7520041077030819244.post-79864812130531345172019-09-22T09:03:00.001-04:002019-09-22T09:08:21.021-04:00Supporting your miniatures.. Literally!Since getting the printer, I've been spending time honing in some settings as well as getting the hang of properly supporting home printed 3d models. My initial foray(s) were mainly using auto generated supports with a few extra that I added for spots that I thought needed them. Unfortunately, the results didn't turn out so well as shown in the previous post. I've been learning more about where and when to place custom supports and they've improved the final appearance of the model with each iteration (newest print on the left, oldest on the right).<br />
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It's not perfect by any means as, despite my added supports, the gunclub (a combo of the two weapons for the RPG character) remains a bit bowed where it meets the hand but at least the globs of fused support and model are gone. I didn't notice any areas of failure to print so I'm probably (other than the before mentioned gunclub) adequately to overly supporting the model. As long as the cleanup is manageable and mostly invisible, I'm ok with the latter!<br />
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Here is the final result painted. From L to R, we have a GW Primaris marine, my earlier Shapeways printed Krogan, my recent home printed Krogan, and a prepainted Star Wars miniature circa 2008.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmthChPxpTiYkOn1GPPSRnxr6WB12wXSExuQoADjwqxiNhv_SRzvzffX5jWCqAXrtbmlKMX46M4dMIOnAkBDzbmC0jDOu0SVenXIKVpyCuwaJgf-I6q8hWLABz_slDozsXPKJH29gOhTk/s1600/KroganFrontComp.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" title=""><img border="0" data-original-height="798" data-original-width="1600" height="316" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmthChPxpTiYkOn1GPPSRnxr6WB12wXSExuQoADjwqxiNhv_SRzvzffX5jWCqAXrtbmlKMX46M4dMIOnAkBDzbmC0jDOu0SVenXIKVpyCuwaJgf-I6q8hWLABz_slDozsXPKJH29gOhTk/s640/KroganFrontComp.JPG" title="" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8e0X1iSF8QWgYUE9iyYB1AHnIxviI7J2KDI7yv2fb35mO0uWkV8D8fVjHfUdEbR8ogTTf3U9orY8FX23EhNRA2VyMYoNBdkZWCcFgEWFW_HPeG7qBvegr8yPbINxXL-0t0VIOJw27c-I/s1600/KroganBackComp.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" title=""><img border="0" data-original-height="805" data-original-width="1600" height="322" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8e0X1iSF8QWgYUE9iyYB1AHnIxviI7J2KDI7yv2fb35mO0uWkV8D8fVjHfUdEbR8ogTTf3U9orY8FX23EhNRA2VyMYoNBdkZWCcFgEWFW_HPeG7qBvegr8yPbINxXL-0t0VIOJw27c-I/s640/KroganBackComp.JPG" title="" width="640" /></a></div>
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Overall, I'd put the crispness of the detail somewhere between my (admittedly dated) prepainted PVC miniature and modern GW plastics at the above printed layer height of 50 microns (with a 47 micron accuracy on the XY plane due to the 1440p/"2k" LCD screen). For something printed at home in a few hours, I'd call that a resounding success considering it took me over a month to get the Shapeways krogan after payment! It's unfortunately not an exact like for like comparison though as my 3d modelling (or more accurately tweaking) skills have improved somewhat and I did learn how to smooth out the obvious polygon facets visible on the krogan as well as his layer height being set to approximately 1/3 (16 microns) that of the home print. At least for my thoroughly mediocre painting abilities, I don't think the added difference shows in the final product.<br />
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Along with the krogan, I decided to reprint NXR Star Trek ship as well since I had plenty of room on the build plate and wanted to test out both the custom supports as well as a true vertical orientation on the model at 50 microns instead of the previous 45 degree angle/20 micron/auto support print shown on the left.<br />
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There is some difference in this model in terms of fine detail but I can't say whether the orientation or the layer height had more to do with it. It's evident in the overall softness and the shallowness of the depth of the saucer elements like the cover over the front saucer tip where the original NX deflector was. Like the krogan, this model wasn't specifically made for 3d printing so shallowness of details is to be expected somewhat but it's a bit more muted than I expected. I haven't painted this model (obviously ) and I am curious how much of it will show through after a layer of primer, paint, and wash are applied. Regardless, I'd have to test out a fully vertical 20 micron print to see how much of that loss is due to each factor. Due to the length of time that would take, I'd probably wait to do that for when I'm ready to print out a full build plate of Trek ships so as to maximize the results for the longer print as a vertical starship is significantly taller than my other mainly wargaming character prints.<br />
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Well, those are my 3d printing results for this past week. As always, feel free to comment below and thanks for reading. More to come in about a week! SITZKRIEG!http://www.blogger.com/profile/05236105506126383773noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7520041077030819244.post-36763317435596727452019-09-13T23:18:00.000-04:002019-09-13T23:22:28.767-04:00Adventures in Cloning KrogansAfter getting my first 3d printer last week and doing an initial pair of test prints last weekend, I've been trying to test out some additional models at a higher level of detail (20 micron layer height instead of 50) in the days since. I decided to go with three models that I tweaked myself from existing models for my first build plate. Included was the Star Trek NX refit that I previewed a few weeks earlier, a purpose built for 3d printing 40k model of a Sister of Battle that I converted a chainsword onto, and another custom posed Krogan that I built as a possible RPG character model for a Starfinder campaign I just joined. I used the automated standard supports to build a scaffolding around the models and added some manual supports for small islands that were missed. I did a fairly thorough job since I've been watching youtube channels for months detailing failed models and they did indeed print entirely and were well bonded to the build plate. Mission accomplished!... or so I thought.<br />
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The front/top of each model was quite nice and I was incredibly impressed with the level of detail. Individual teeth on the chainsword printed perfectly and even portholes on the starship are visible. The only misprint I found was the sagging barrel on the Krogan's gatling laser club and the deflector on the NXR bonded with the secondary hull. Unfortunately, the undersides of the models were much worse as I saw when I removed the supports.<br />
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Each model is a example of a different kind of error with supports. The supports on the back of the Sister of Battle were on occasion too close to her and tiny bits of resin trapped between them bonded the two together leaving large, ugly messes resembling superglue blobs. The amount of surface area needed to print the starship at a 45 degree angle (so as not to be taller than the other models and increase the 7 1/2 hour build time by another hour or two) meant a large amount of supports and the standard auto setting left many pips that have to be individually removed after the support itself is clipped. The krogan was lacking any supports on the top of the gun barrel as it was printing vertically on the build plate and supposedly didn't need any but sagged for some reason around the hand.<br />
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Obviously it was time to go back to basics and rewatch any videos dealing with placement of supports. In the next post, I'll detail what I learned, what I changed, and show some of the results.<br />
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<br />SITZKRIEG!http://www.blogger.com/profile/05236105506126383773noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7520041077030819244.post-77868535598522626812019-09-11T19:15:00.003-04:002019-09-11T19:21:01.955-04:00Lazy Summer Days... or are they?I haven't been too active on the blog but that (much to my own surprise!) hasn't been the case in real life with regards to my hobby efforts. After my last post, I decided to try another Primaris Space Marine that specifically wasn't from my Winged Hussar chapter. Instead, I decided to make a model for the successor chapter of Space Wolves based on the Dusk Howler paint scheme linked below.<br />
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<a href="https://wh40khomebrew.fandom.com/wiki/Dusk_Howlers" target="_blank">Dusk Howler wiki page</a></div>
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After a few false starts including one complete paint strip and a change from a naked head to a helmeted o<span style="color: #0000ee;"><span style="color: black;">ne, I ended up with the following final figure. In retrospect, I'd have preferred the bare head and the real chain loin cloth was definitely not worth the hassle compared with just using a plastic bit. </span></span><br />
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<span style="color: black;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtmdkNE1FlUNkU3Srn0G5QCIpBgT0TIZvyn5P0sKsd1Gj2kZmIAFQGRHiKM7bOICR0PTjtlooExnDhGpq6qhxDzJ01e987BOn8FaQ-P0DGrvnDiqdlrsPJMRVVQkuXhr6xQi9YJKH8h0U/s1600/SWprimaristest.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1105" data-original-width="1265" height="278" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtmdkNE1FlUNkU3Srn0G5QCIpBgT0TIZvyn5P0sKsd1Gj2kZmIAFQGRHiKM7bOICR0PTjtlooExnDhGpq6qhxDzJ01e987BOn8FaQ-P0DGrvnDiqdlrsPJMRVVQkuXhr6xQi9YJKH8h0U/s320/SWprimaristest.JPG" title="" width="320" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="color: black;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIfF0bfH2Sp7dQG0XzmRnxhI2b_C_YesvgQlo-vQkg7HrDb9OjqXOsK1Ffzqu0eTaXskfPy0u1XSv3FN4gPJLChJh13WuH0gFo_AHSxUEWdfbnB3M4rYCvai9xSgNhkpJ95MFDuBoaXa8/s1600/DuskHowler.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIfF0bfH2Sp7dQG0XzmRnxhI2b_C_YesvgQlo-vQkg7HrDb9OjqXOsK1Ffzqu0eTaXskfPy0u1XSv3FN4gPJLChJh13WuH0gFo_AHSxUEWdfbnB3M4rYCvai9xSgNhkpJ95MFDuBoaXa8/s400/DuskHowler.JPG" title="" width="400" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="color: #0000ee;"> <span style="color: black;">Afterwards, I returned to remixing (basically digital converting of 3d models) designs for a while until I saw that 3d printers had finally dropped below my personal long stated cost threshold. I hesitated for over a month during which the sale model constantly went in and out of stock before finally committing to buying it during the last days of the sale. As a proud new owner of an Elegoo Mars, I then proceeded to try out my first test print that didn't exactly go so well. Luckily, I noticed that I hadn't tightened up the build plate less than a third of the way through and repeated the print with the results below. Apologies for the crappy paint job but it was literally speed painted in a single evening before my first tabletop game of 2019 (where it was my RPG character model) but I posted the pic because it shows the level of detail a bit more than the bare resin.</span></span></div>
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<span style="color: black;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbYQupNfzmmZ6fPK6Z8rp3hdO7gW7dZD4JIOV2qg8NhJN3N_kywq0NRsLWgJUQgwsm8Dmt4FKdjLmveppMSaHEwomkl79fgFb4lIuhrA-EwssDOHdlwsYn6ekQlJjhprHiP4C84KWIxTk/s1600/testprint.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="879" data-original-width="1600" height="218" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbYQupNfzmmZ6fPK6Z8rp3hdO7gW7dZD4JIOV2qg8NhJN3N_kywq0NRsLWgJUQgwsm8Dmt4FKdjLmveppMSaHEwomkl79fgFb4lIuhrA-EwssDOHdlwsYn6ekQlJjhprHiP4C84KWIxTk/s400/testprint.JPG" title="" width="400" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="color: black;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgr1cQuPtfLvX10y4hXxJ3sQiL-BqAMvGd-OcnsHvx8QZMk2Nm4dHIlM6CD9We9zntNbBPMpqRHd-eAxigUoM8RD4N8FMjyYhJI5JsRj0P01p9oShyrBZQPnc3ODYUwvQCIJM0qBt5jDLQ/s1600/kroganscale.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1181" data-original-width="1600" height="295" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgr1cQuPtfLvX10y4hXxJ3sQiL-BqAMvGd-OcnsHvx8QZMk2Nm4dHIlM6CD9We9zntNbBPMpqRHd-eAxigUoM8RD4N8FMjyYhJI5JsRj0P01p9oShyrBZQPnc3ODYUwvQCIJM0qBt5jDLQ/s400/kroganscale.JPG" title="" width="400" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="color: black;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjl6y2XDUrkdVqLvFSHJbm1MlBbKNES4Pylk5RuwGGQKfkurpakTN_rrXoJq4EgD_VdQI1qX2wFZkAeAjcid6H1RaWAFbGXK7oUX5Cim-EqdIjYUJ5vBQ9_48A9EruY6swsDXuoP86hcYc/s1600/kroganpainted.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" title=""><img border="0" data-original-height="998" data-original-width="1109" height="287" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjl6y2XDUrkdVqLvFSHJbm1MlBbKNES4Pylk5RuwGGQKfkurpakTN_rrXoJq4EgD_VdQI1qX2wFZkAeAjcid6H1RaWAFbGXK7oUX5Cim-EqdIjYUJ5vBQ9_48A9EruY6swsDXuoP86hcYc/s320/kroganpainted.jpg" title="" width="320" /></a></span></div>
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I have to say that I'm very impressed with what you can do with an affordable home printer in 2019. The print was done at 50 microns for testing purposes but the printer is capable of layer heights less than half that! I just didn't max out the settings as even that single figure would have taken over 7 hours based on height. I hope to have an update later this week with my first relatively full test bed of models at the highest detail level for a better comparison. I just hope that I don't end up printing more than my painting habits allow for! :)</div>
SITZKRIEG!http://www.blogger.com/profile/05236105506126383773noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7520041077030819244.post-29880172952610565292019-07-30T09:20:00.001-04:002019-07-30T12:14:21.946-04:00Birth of the Federation (NX era rules for STA)<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnoTygLHGmma43LhRAVYi_gkdQ1uR9Q4WG0Y3dcRQ0oms5knMRk9KqKWHWe6YsIBXbx4GnDp4wBgnuxpKVQqBK3PlYSXVhW7Wf3BMKTHViD_CiJHU0DqpUT9YJrwvz0qAouHA_y3PMcQQ/s1600/NXRwip.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" title=""><img border="0" data-original-height="331" data-original-width="1221" height="171" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnoTygLHGmma43LhRAVYi_gkdQ1uR9Q4WG0Y3dcRQ0oms5knMRk9KqKWHWe6YsIBXbx4GnDp4wBgnuxpKVQqBK3PlYSXVhW7Wf3BMKTHViD_CiJHU0DqpUT9YJrwvz0qAouHA_y3PMcQQ/s640/NXRwip.jpg" title="" width="640" /></a></div>
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I've been working on my first ever "remix" of a Star Trek 3D model (basically the digital equivalent of a plastic model kitbash or conversion). A while back on one of my first blog entries, I posted my NXL Long Range Exploratory pod idea (<a href="https://sitzkrieg.blogspot.com/2016/07/star-trek-nxl-long-range-exploration-pod.html" target="_blank">link here</a>) and decided recently to try and add a 3rd dimension to the visualization. That of course brought up the more practical gaming uses for it and reminded me that I wasn't entirely happy with the rules for the NX era in the modern Star Trek Adventures RPG. The problem that I have with it is that I feel that the rules penalize ships from the era a bit too much as you not only get downgraded but also have to pay an extra cost for the privilege. For example, you have to pay for the privilege of downgrading your tractor beam to a grappler cannon using a ship trait; similarly, downgrading shields to hull plating costs another. While I wholeheartedly support making ships of that era worse than those from a century earlier, this double penalizes the worst ships whereas the most powerful ships of the era are functionally equivalent to those that come over a century later when updated.<span style="background-color: white;"><i><b> </b></i></span><br />
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<span style="background-color: #d0e0e3;"><i><b>Tripp</b>: "How can you be so damn sure what our sensors can do?"</i></span></blockquote>
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<span style="background-color: #d0e0e3;"><i><b>T'Pol</b>: "Vulcan children play with toys that are more sophisticated." <b> </b></i></span></blockquote>
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<u><span style="font-size: large;"><b>RULES FOR PLAYING IN THE NX ERA</b></span></u></div>
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Ships originating from this era (pre-2200 introduction) have a baseline technology level below that of most eras covered by the Star Trek Adventures core rules. As such, the starting equipment for a spaceframe introduced before 2200 has the following changes:<br />
<ul>
<li>Remove access to shields and the tractor beam; replace them with the polarized hull plating and grappler cable rules respectively from page 55 of the Command Division book supplement.</li>
<li>Remove photon torpedoes and phasers/disruptors and replace them with plasma turrets (no special qualities) and either the spatial torpedoes and/or nuclear warheads from page 55 of the Command Division book supplement.<span style="background-color: #d0e0e3;"> </span><blockquote class="tr_bq">
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<span style="background-color: #d0e0e3;"> <i><b>Tripp:</b> "That tractor beam of yours is quite somethin'. Any chance we could take a look at the specifications?"<b> </b></i></span></blockquote>
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</li>
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<span style="background-color: #d0e0e3;"><i><b>Vannik:</b> "That information is classified."</i></span></blockquote>
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<i> </i>In order to emulate the more advanced ships from the era, the following talent is available for selection.<br />
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<b>STATE OF THE ART</b> <br />
Pre-2200 service date introduction only. This ship contains systems that are far in advance of the common technology of the day. Each time you select this talent (max twice), you must choose to either upgrade the offensive or defensive systems of the ship. If you choose the offensive option, you may upgrade your baseline weapons to phase weapons and/or photonic torpedoes. If you choose defensive, you may upgrade your systems to include shields and/or tractor beams.</blockquote>
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For example, the original NX class as launched would just include plasma turrets and spatial torpedoes with all three talent slots open. If you instead choose to portray the ship as equiped in later seasons, the ship would have the State of the Art (Offensive) talent with the phase weapon and photonic torpedo upgrades. If you instead wanted to go even later in the era, the NX refit would spend another slot on a second State of the Art talent in order for the ship to include shields and tractor beams. As always, feel free to let me know what you think of this as an alternative to the official rules for the game.SITZKRIEG!http://www.blogger.com/profile/05236105506126383773noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7520041077030819244.post-42818902267581368672019-07-09T11:29:00.000-04:002019-07-09T11:29:58.641-04:00Star Trek Heroclix... worth a quick touchup?Recently I gave another player the advice that a quick wash/shade of the Star Trek heroclix figs improves their look and the level of visible detail and I realized that I had never actually done so with my own Trek clix figs that I picked up last year. While I had done the same thing with some other clix figs like AVP and Marvel/DC ones, those examples were a few years ago and I figured I should update the blog with an example of the quick and dirty technique on the newer Star Trek figs. My goal was to show what can be done quickly, easily, and relatively inexpensively by a player without any real experience with painting miniatures. <br />
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I tried to choose a half dozen figs showcasing a variety of factions and colors. The original prepainted figs are duplicates of the same sculpt/paint job as I didn't think of taking the before pics of the exact same figs; any minor deviations on the base paint scheme (like roving eyebrows on the red shirt!) are just paint errors from the clix factory. And, yes, the red shirt that I touched up is indeed missing a hand as he came like that from the ebay auction. I had a second one of the fig so figured it wasn't worth raising a stink with the seller with one defective fig out of 20+ in the lot. Besides, it's a bit appropriate given he's a red shirt and nurse Chapel is nearby anyways to treat his wound. :) Here is the starting "before" pic: <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPy0ABc5tbgYdhxF4zqsEXdswE7ehF2M7urbrVraIzgeWK6fk3FII1ogyIXDuCNgOQykQmDTFTReDUqTrXIK_3ilKv8NETW64_KrKhTGs_rG53FWq5p46bwUrLMF65C4U6rhA4PEdZiEg/s1600/TrekClixOriginal.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="440" data-original-width="1600" height="176" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPy0ABc5tbgYdhxF4zqsEXdswE7ehF2M7urbrVraIzgeWK6fk3FII1ogyIXDuCNgOQykQmDTFTReDUqTrXIK_3ilKv8NETW64_KrKhTGs_rG53FWq5p46bwUrLMF65C4U6rhA4PEdZiEg/s640/TrekClixOriginal.JPG" title="" width="640" /></a></div>
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The first step that I did was a quick wash of the main uniform color. I used a dark flesh wash on the Klingon/Romulan and a light wash on the Andorian. The Federation figs instead got (from L to R) a red wash, soft flesh, and blue wash on the uniforms. Skin and hands then got the approrpriate wash as well (blue for the Andorian, soft flesh for the rest). I didn't wait for the first wash to dry before applying the second as I was purposely trying to show what a quick, relatively no fuss novice technique could do. About the only care that I took was to avoid excessive pooling in areas like eye sockets and splotches on big flat areas. No fig got more than 30 seconds each in total of actual painting time/attention with both washes combined.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRYyE_OC3aSO0l1vEg0KRJVJCPkUczm4u-Em9XntNvxSItY055BkzFJeijAMJFcPnAJvyGIqxETtT_oKieWY3gjq6zIn9nV73guo2T_YP1J2Zjld2uKCKsh390a2paFC4LoQ-UE95n0cE/s1600/TrekClixWashed.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" title=""><img border="0" data-original-height="440" data-original-width="1600" height="176" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRYyE_OC3aSO0l1vEg0KRJVJCPkUczm4u-Em9XntNvxSItY055BkzFJeijAMJFcPnAJvyGIqxETtT_oKieWY3gjq6zIn9nV73guo2T_YP1J2Zjld2uKCKsh390a2paFC4LoQ-UE95n0cE/s640/TrekClixWashed.JPG" title="" width="640" /></a></div>
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While I was happy with the added detail in folds of the uniforms as well as on the faces, the above obviously isn't a home run either. Despite my (admittedly minor) efforts to prevent excessive pooling, there are still areas where the wash dried a bit too prominently for my tastes so I figured I'd try and see what adding a second quick dry brush step could do for the figs. For this next pic, I basically just dry brushed whatever the closest color I had to the base color (red for red, light blue for blue, brass for brass/copper, etc) even if it wasn't the exact same tone to pick out the raised areas a bit more. I wasn't careful regarding how I applied this paint so areas like the starfleet delta uniform details are somewhat obliterated. If you want to keep those details, I'd say use a traditional careful technique in that one same area instead of drybrushing.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIAiqR1F2cSa24feLOnLcVkaZO6zWEXTByEKYlFlWb_PGjMYoqCAv9oiZlbjqUGg-MUX7Q4c-zsTEplRT56Aujl4m2DVBSzgU3icIWmJ4OrqP8AXjzhmjOAfpAxbBoNLX7ImM4U68FUKY/s1600/TrekClixDryBrushed.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" title=""><img border="0" data-original-height="440" data-original-width="1600" height="176" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIAiqR1F2cSa24feLOnLcVkaZO6zWEXTByEKYlFlWb_PGjMYoqCAv9oiZlbjqUGg-MUX7Q4c-zsTEplRT56Aujl4m2DVBSzgU3icIWmJ4OrqP8AXjzhmjOAfpAxbBoNLX7ImM4U68FUKY/s640/TrekClixDryBrushed.JPG" title="" width="640" /></a></div>
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For darker colored figs like the klingons, I don't think the technique has much utility as the only place that I see a difference on him is on the grey uniform top (similarly the helmet/face on the romulan). I do think though that it does improve the lighter colored figures in the line for minimal effort. It's obviously *NOT* the same thing as repainting them with care and detail nor is it perfect as some things are lost (uniform badges and the whites of the eyes) but overall I think it is a moderate improvement for minimal effort. Including the washes drying, the set of figs above was completely done in about an hour (most of that time taken up with waiting for the washes to dry!) with no individual figure taking more than 2-3 minutes total for both steps combined in actual painting effort.<br />
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Here is an animated comparison of the three steps in succession on the two figs that I think it had the greatest impact on. As always, feel free to let me know what you think and whether or not the quick wash and/or dry brush is worth the effort (or if it is even an improvement in the first place!).<br />
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<br />SITZKRIEG!http://www.blogger.com/profile/05236105506126383773noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7520041077030819244.post-55072401970025957022019-06-11T12:23:00.003-04:002019-06-11T13:10:57.318-04:00The eyes... the eyes! Aging in the hobby...After posting my latest Winged Hussar pics online, I got an unprecedented amount of feedback on the model and unfortunately alot of it was negative specifically regarding the eyes. From replies entirely consisting of the first part of the title of this post to multiple animated gifs of googley eyes and melting faces, the response took me back a bit as I actually made a concerted effort to paint them with this final model. In the past, I basically just applied a flesh was to the eye sockets and just left it as is.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpt1frOltBmt7FMHdUZgxJSJuGRSRVJMVTNhJ0iULnq8rp7nEyb0PwCnug5Q87ag_wuh-fs_JS2RyBXI5kn9aKfg0bSY8vdPd9Th61wE72ZgixhhngFGmkdSkY5JWWLp7KoWhE2Fju0FA/s1600/face.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" title=""><img border="0" data-original-height="196" data-original-width="170" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpt1frOltBmt7FMHdUZgxJSJuGRSRVJMVTNhJ0iULnq8rp7nEyb0PwCnug5Q87ag_wuh-fs_JS2RyBXI5kn9aKfg0bSY8vdPd9Th61wE72ZgixhhngFGmkdSkY5JWWLp7KoWhE2Fju0FA/s1600/face.jpg" title="" /></a></div>
I did something similar initially with this model but later decided to add in some pupils. The results were not pretty so I decided that for the first time in over 15 years that I'd try to paint the eyes completely.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguEK4vvKEbsNsI7wfxF2uZ8Qof_3uaG_KIRE62gst4eQujCcM-AlkgIErqqHtocZDE5na8kTffaw8XcY3yfonK0eIZkOc6cawxv-RXCQp67PhMpxv9xVyD836Gc1FYYF_S7fxMV2CNpIc/s1600/face2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="196" data-original-width="170" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguEK4vvKEbsNsI7wfxF2uZ8Qof_3uaG_KIRE62gst4eQujCcM-AlkgIErqqHtocZDE5na8kTffaw8XcY3yfonK0eIZkOc6cawxv-RXCQp67PhMpxv9xVyD836Gc1FYYF_S7fxMV2CNpIc/s1600/face2.jpg" title="" /></a></div>
It's been a while since I last tried and I had to admit that those intervening decades have taken their toll. Whereas things like first receding then greying hair and increasing weight with decreasing muscle mass are impossible signs of aging for me to ignore, it hadn't really affected my hobby directly (or at least I hadn't admitted it yet). Unfortunately, I've noticed that over the past year or two that my vision has been steadily worsening (I don't need glasses just yet but likely will eventually) and I was having trouble making out smaller details on the models. I'd think that my paint job was good and then cringe at mistakes evident in the mega-zoomed in pics that I'd post here. Since I was putting in the extra effort, I decided to get myself some granny magnifying reading glasses to better see the details as well as finally improve the lighting in the basement where I typically paint as well as buying the smallest technical pens in both white and black that I could find to help with the painting. While far from perfect (too much whites and the asymmetric left iris), I was happy with the results at least at arms length. The general response though was vastly different though.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgS9dyvYtTaLtTpALJ2PpvWl7cS1zxalE9riUkxq0V67Ihm2W7D2FNqmZ16nlhq9QDSU_q1VWmIfzddP_gtx-zF1lPdoJ-6Dx8g-MmaId-eDTFWTjBUzX7AXqe47Xtv4myWtjx8KGPx0Ho/s1600/face3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" title=""><img border="0" data-original-height="196" data-original-width="170" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgS9dyvYtTaLtTpALJ2PpvWl7cS1zxalE9riUkxq0V67Ihm2W7D2FNqmZ16nlhq9QDSU_q1VWmIfzddP_gtx-zF1lPdoJ-6Dx8g-MmaId-eDTFWTjBUzX7AXqe47Xtv4myWtjx8KGPx0Ho/s1600/face3.jpg" title="" /></a></div>
The above was probalby the best result that I got after repainting the area a half dozen times. After getting feedback on the above, I've done another couple of attempts to fix it with only slightly better results but I'm worried about obliterating the detail on the face if I try again. I toyed with the idea of ripping the head off, stripping it, and restarting from scratch but the results really aren't noticeable at arms length (or even 12" away with my granny glasses) and I think I'll just take the advice given on how to improve it and use it on the next model (likely the upcoming Sister of Battle recently previewed by GW). Regardless, since I was working on it again, I decided to fix the eagle decal that slid up a bit on the shin as well as a few other paint splotches that I missed previously.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiU4gbddAksxR-XPh-mRHZ8QLQHnctOy_x9N7B7ZJrsCAnUvqRZEXvr1zhpwLqdP1R4VqlvzdhQpIBrYibxigSO_tAJU_OlYjrcPnyib0vzyLHtTwsE0cE0Dj1ySjiVArApSJ4DXuouWl0/s1600/face4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" title=""><img border="0" data-original-height="196" data-original-width="170" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiU4gbddAksxR-XPh-mRHZ8QLQHnctOy_x9N7B7ZJrsCAnUvqRZEXvr1zhpwLqdP1R4VqlvzdhQpIBrYibxigSO_tAJU_OlYjrcPnyib0vzyLHtTwsE0cE0Dj1ySjiVArApSJ4DXuouWl0/s200/face4.jpg" title="" width="173" /></a></div>
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For better or worse, that's probably the best that I'll be able to accomplish going forward with the hobby. Looking at the pic, I swear that the dark recess wash goes all the way
around the shoulder pad in person but I'll have to double check (and
correct that if need be) when I get home tonight.SITZKRIEG!http://www.blogger.com/profile/05236105506126383773noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7520041077030819244.post-61065465533240757412019-06-09T12:00:00.000-04:002019-06-09T12:37:16.145-04:00Lt. Amulius Completed (Primaris WInged Hussar Conversion)Well, I've completely finished my first Winged Hussar Primaris marine! I've been working on various marines over the past year as part of that extended project but I never decided on a basing scheme so they were never technically 100% finished on their naked black bases. The Lieutenant Amulius model comes with a texted base as part of the model so I couldn't procrastinate my way past this model like I did with the others.<br />
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I tried to consciously do a better job with this model as I don't currently have plans to make any further Winged Hussars at the moment since I'm running short of bits as well as sculpts that inspire me (although I reserve the right to add more in the future!). I was frankly embarrased at some of my efforts in the past year (especially the faces) so I tried to better catch mistakes before it was too late. I'll expand on that in the next post as I don't want to add a mini rant on aging in the hobby with this post. With this model, I took close up pictures after my initial painting and first wash steps to improve on tiny spill over painting mistakes. Just looking at the animated gif above, I missed a few of them (one that I can correct at least on the backpack) but I think the model shows some moderate improvement compared with my previous efforts. I resized the image above for animation but here are the full static views below.<br />
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<br />There are things that looking at the images after the fact could have been improved upon though. I'm not entirely happy with the Polish eagle decal placement on the leg but it was a last minute and fiddly change as it initially was placed on the knee instead. Unfortunately due to the curvature, I couldn't get it to sit right even with a strategic cut and some decal softener so had to remove (and ruin) that decal with a second one placed below. It looks like it rode up a bit (or perhaps I just didn't see the placement correctly with my vision... more on that in my next blog post) higher than I would have liked but whats done is done. There are a few other paint missteps that are visible zoomed in (one or two of which I can correct but not all) as well. As always, feel free to comment/criticize below.SITZKRIEG!http://www.blogger.com/profile/05236105506126383773noreply@blogger.com6